Fashion turns its back on green: it will not reach the emissions targets of the Paris Agreement

Of the world’s largest fashion distribution groups, only VF and Levi’s are on track to reduce their greenhouse gas emissions in line with the deal’s roadmap, while Nike and Inditex lag far behind.

If it continues at the current pace, Inditex’s supply chain will raise its greenhouse gas emissions to 16.7 million metric tons of carbon dioxide by 2030.

Fashion is misguided. Most of the world’s largest fashion distribution groups are on track to increase their greenhouse gas emissions in the coming years and will miss the targets set in 2015 under the Paris Agreement, according to a report published by environmental organization and consultancy Stand Earth.

Of the companies analyzed (American Eagle Outfitters, Fast Retailing, Gap, H&M, Inditex, Kering, Lululemon, Levi Strauss, Nike and VF Corp), Levi’s is the most advanced and is on track to reduce emissions from its value chain by 55% compared to 2018, which corresponds to the objectives linked to keeping global warming at a temperature of 1.5 degrees Celsius.

VF Corp is also advancing at a faster pace than average and is reducing its greenhouse gases at a rate of 2.66%, although it will still need to accelerate the pace in the coming years to reach the desired target.

In the year of the coronavirus, the fashion industry experienced a notable drop in its emissions due to a halt in activity on an international scale, but eight of the ten companies analyzed by Stand Earth returned to raise their emissions significantly in 2021.

If it continues at the current pace, Inditex’s supply chain will raise its greenhouse gas emissions to 16.7 million metric tons of carbon dioxide by 2030, being by far the group analyzed in the report that contributes the most to air pollution.

It would be followed by Nike, with 11.5 million metric tons of CO2 in 2030. To achieve the goals linked to the Paris Agreement, both Inditex and the world’s largest sportswear group should reduce their emissions at an average annual rate of 6.43% over the next decade.

Lululemon, for its part, has increased its greenhouse gas emissions by 63% in 2021, which is equivalent to an increase of 37.8% compared to 2019, before the outbreak of the pandemic and the first year for which there is data from the Canadian sportswear group. To achieve the goals of the Paris Agreement, the company will have to reduce its emissions annually by 7%.

Roadmaps to return to the ‘green’

In the last year, H&M and Kering have positioned themselves as the two most ambitious fashion operators in their sustainable objectives linked to the reduction of carbon dioxide emissions.

Although all the companies analyzed in the Stand Earth report have set a future goal of using 100% renewable energy, only the second largest fashion distribution group in the world and the Swiss luxury fashion giant that owns Gucci have brought this roadmap to their entire supply chain.

Inditex, for its part, set itself the goal of reaching net zero emissions by 2040, in addition to using exclusively renewable energy this year. The group also aims to reduce water pollution by 25% throughout its supply chain by 2025.

On the other hand, only American Eagle, Nike and H&M have established an implementation plan for the use of burned coal for technical energy, a key aspect in the Fashion Charter published by the United Nations (UN) for 2030. All companies analyzed by Stand Earth committed to meeting the objectives of the charter.

Stand Earth was born in 2000 by a group of environmental activists dedicated to conserving the ancient forests of the Columbia coast. Over time, the organization has expanded its activity and is dedicated to research, consulting and activism against global warming and for the protection of the environment. Stand Earth is based in San Francisco (California) and has a staff of about thirty employees.

Source: Modaes